Getting inside this case, you can see that there’s a fair bit of ground to cover. Immediately obvious is the matte-black powdercoating on everything except the panel retention slider. This makes a pleasant change from bare metal all through. I have a thing for dark case interiors in order to hide my black cables and little touches like this score big in my book even though you’d sort of expect them given the price tag.
The panels are thin aluminium and include pre-applied acoustic-dampening foam to hopefully quiet things down.




I was pretty amazed to note the lack of any supporting struts running along the length of the case – you know the ones I mean – the ones that run a beam across from the back panel to the front and use it to support the PSU and stop the case from twisting when it’s loaded up. While it’s a sneaky spot to mount your lighting or cable runs, it’s just ghastly looking if there’s a large window in the case.
This is part of that dual purpose I was talking about earlier – by designing the unibody this way, the whole chassis is able to stay far more rigid than traditional case designs. The benefit of this (besides the ugly crossbar being safely ditched – paving the way to cleaner looking internals) is that you end up with a more rigid, heavy-set and less “tinny” frame that helps reduce vibration from things like fans and HDD’s – which should mean that a system in this case should be quieter than you would expect too.
Looks and quietness aside, one of the other major features of note (for this modder at least) is that almost everything inside the case is attached to the thick unibody by screws! No more drilling out a million rivets if you want to take this baby apart. I removed all of the drive bays, fans, filters, power switch, IO ports and grilles in about 15 minutes with two screwdrivers (you need a short one to remove the 5.25” clips) Given a bit more time (and the need), The motherboard tray could have also been removed by drilling out nine (non-pop rivets) and removing another six screws as well.





If you do take the Fortress apart though, be warned that re-attaching screws to the frame must be done very carefully to avoid stripping the extremely fine threads that have been tapped into the case. If you cross-thread a screw, there’s no way to re-attach it without making the hole (and screw) larger and tapping it appropriately. For you people that rush in and slap things together haphazardly, consider yourself warned – while this case is tough, aluminium is still a comparatively soft metal, especially where screw-threads are concerned.
The 5.25” bays are “tool free” with a simple rocker-type button being all you need to secure anything installed; although you do need to remove two screws to take the drive bay covers out initially. There are also back-up screw holes if you want to be doubly safe. The distinctive 3.5” bays are made of steel with the drive caddies being made out of plastic. Both appear to be designed to minimize airflow restriction as much as is possible when no disks are installed. The caddies include rubber anti vibration mounts which help cut out a fair amount of vibration noise.



Now, before you start crying “plastic equals cheap!” and grabbing your torches and pitchforks, using plastic caddies should help reduce vibration transmission further between the disk and the rest of the case – albeit at the expense of sturdiness – I’d rather see metal handles as opposed to plastic, as this could possibly be a point of weakness in future; especially if drives are being swapped out regularly.
The feature that had really grabbed my interest about the internal design of the fortress was the thought given to cable routing. The motherboard tray has large holes above and below it that allow you to run cables behind the motherboard tray and out of sight very easily. Similarly, there are three holes (surrounded with rubber edges) that allow you to route other data, fan and front-panel connectors through and behind the drive cages.


In front of the cages we come to the behemoth 180mm fan behind an easily removable dust filter. The fan and filter mount are removable via a set of screws. Looking at the fan you can see it’s a monster – no flashy LED’s here folks. At the time of writing, there are virtually no aftermarket 180mm fan options freely available, so if you want to swap this out simply, your only option is to go down the 120mm route as there are a set of standard 120mm mounting holes, judging by the size difference though, any LED fans in this spot will probably look a little inadequate once lit up as there is a lot of space around them.




The same fan/filter system is used in the top – as an intake with a single 120mm fan used as an exhaust


Now I’m not a fan (no pun intended) of intakes in the tops of cases as fighting dust in the air is hard enough, let alone airborne dust being assisted by gravity as well as a giant fan. So why do it? Two reasons: The first is that by having an intake fan blowing right onto the system’s CPU and power regulators (AKA “the hot bits”), you can be guaranteed that your core components will stay cooler than in the standard scenario where the main intake’s airflow in the front of the case is being restricted (and heated up) by the hard disks directly behind it.
Secondly,
positive pressure airflow– In a nutshell, this denotes that the case has more intakes than exhausts. There are divided opinions as to whether positive pressure is a better all-round cooling solution than negative pressure (i.e. more exhausts than intakes) in a PC, and I’m not about to start picking sides in this review. The Aeroslots come into the picture here. With only having the single 120mm fan removing the air pulled in by the two giant 180mm fans, in order to let extra air out nicely, the perforated PCI slots (as an exit) “direct” turbulent air around your graphics card on its way out.
While we’re up here, I should point out the only design flaw that I managed to find in the case design. The top dust filter is not able to be removed due to a support of the motherboard tray being right in its path. This is a pretty big oversight, given that the fan is designated as an intake and being gravity-fed dust 24/7. The only way to clean the filter is to remove the entire mounting bracket. While not difficult, it is still rather fiddly and would probably prove to be a bit of a pain with a system installed.

